22/04/17 – Happy (Belated) Sankranta!

Repping the national flag at the ruins emblazoned between the stripes.

I realized about five seconds after the bus pulled into Siem Reap from my Visa-Cation in Laos that I had only three and a half weeks to finish cataloguing and modelling every Buddhist Terrace I ground-truthed at Angkor Thom; Natasha and her friends are in Siem Reap by May 6th, and I’m leaving the country on May 9th for Sri Lanka via 12 days in Thailand. That said, 3 1/2 weeks to find things you’ve already found doesn’t take long unless the sites are as far away as they can possibly be in the backwoods. That was only the case for two of the seven survey days I’ve undertaken since I got back, so things have been moving quickly but smoothly.

And I even got a few 3D models done in the process, which I’ll be posting in the next entry as soon as I fix the top of a stupa that was shaded by a tree.

I eagerly jumped back into the woods the first day back from Laos, but was immediately stopped in my tracks by one thing I’d kind of forgotten about: Sankranta, Cambodian New Year.

Not the best time to jump into the woods. Plus, for this single weekend, my APSARA pass was useless because there were soldiers patrolling the Bayon and the South Gate Road. The only places I could go were on the map.

Sankranta, or Songkran as it’s more commonly known in Thailand, celebrates the first day of the Cambodian/Thai calendar, and is incredibly unique to any New Year’s celebration I’ve ever taken part of. The celebration lasts three days – this year was April 14th – April 16th, and typically spans the second weekend of April from Friday to Sunday (next year it’s April 13th-15th) – and traditionally consists of weekend-long prayers at the local wat and a celebration with family and friends back in the village. It’s very locally-celebrated, and villagers working in the tourism industry in Siem Reap pour out.

That’s just more money for the nea tweugah who live in and around Siem Reap, though: over the last decade, Siem Reap and the Angkor Archaeological Park have become the focal point of the entire New Year’s Celebration!

From Angkor Wat to Angkor Thom the place is hopping with a fun, kitsch carnival atmosphere.
And, of course, with Hun Sen and Norodom Sihamoni showing up, you had to have some golden pzzazz. Bong thom aren’t as grumpy when they’re presented with golden pzzazz.

During that weekend every hotel was packed, but not with foreign tourists: with Cambodians. And for me it was a chance to see Cambodia’s Middle Class for the first time, who for the most part do not live in Siem Reap. Siem Reap is filled with (typically poor) seasonal workers who live in small villages all across Cambodia, and the city empties during the rice harvest in October-November after the end of the Rainy Season. The week leading up to Sankranta was similar, and kramah (scarf)-wearing farmers in tuk-tuks and kitchens were temporarily replaced by white-collar workers driving multiple SUVs and paying $22/night for a hotel room alongside the tourists. Of course, the importance of family transcends social class in Cambodia, so you get the same type of family crowded you get with large families of subsistence farmers.

To the left, an entire Cambodian family has squeezed themselves underneath a plastic elephant. Why they decided to do that I’ll never know.

Take, for example, the huge family that took up an entire floor of the Villa Siem Reap, my hotel. Each husband and wife had their own room along with their very young babies and toddlers, each grandparent had their own room regardless of whether they were widowed, but the ten kids along for the ride were stuffed into a single room with two double-beds and no floor-space. I saw the maids cleaning up that room on Monday – it looked like someone TP-d a house and had dumped a huge bucket of water on the floor.

Add to that two Toyotas, one Lexus parked on the road, two motorcycles, and a Kia. I kind of wanted Grandma to be the road hog of the family.

Because Sankranta happens over the course of a weekend, there’s plenty to do in the spirit of familial togetherness, and you see a few traditions begun to reveal themselves.

Like, for example, dancing in a circle barefoot on a tarp. That’s one of rural Cambodia’s favourite traditions: dancing in circles barefoot on tarps.

The first is, simply, going out for a picnic or having a cookout. I’ve been to multiple Cambodian cookouts – everyone gets really drunk and eats about a pound of pork fat. But in Siem Reap people were relatively well-behaved because the government hired about 400 extra soldiers and policemen to patrol Siem Reap and the Angkor Archaeological Park. It was mainly because King Norodom Sihamoni and Hun Sen were coming through on Saturday, but I figure it was to dissuade rabble-rousers as well. But you could see picnicking families sitting on the outer shore of the moat surrounding Angkor Thom, up the road to the Bayon Temple at Angkor Thom, and even at Srah Srang Reservoir further east unpacking enormous lunches as the kids ran around like crazy-people. On occasion, somebody got hurt or there was a fight between aggressive family members, but that’s not unlike any rowdy family reunion back home!

(Mind you, I haven’t been to a family reunion since I was thirteen (that’s one side of my family), and my grandparents’ funerals don’t count (that’s the other side), so I really have no good idea whether this is the way these shindigs actually get down).

The second is lighting incense at various ancient and modern temples for the worship of the Buddha, neak ta (spirits inhabiting inanimate objects), and ancestral spirits. The smell of incense in smaller temples is intoxicating, and lines form in front of significant statues to pray.

On an imperial scale, this altar is definitely my favourite Sankranta installation anywhere – they actually managed to breathe life back into the Bayon!
But more locally, for example, this enormous stone top of an ancient stupa sits in the middle of the forest 300m away from the nearest road.
But someone went in and found it and put down incense and a prayer mat at its base (these are both recent and weren’t here the last time I walked by a month ago). Why? Well, a stone monolith sitting silently in the woods has to have a spirit living in it, no?

The Government of Cambodia has attempted to appeal to the younger, less religious generation by camping up Angkor for a weekend. Combining religious worship, history, nationalism, and pop culture, the land to the west of Angkor Wat and inside central Angkor Thom is transformed into “Angkor Sankranta Theme Park”.

Angkor Village, the closest thing Cambodia has to those awful Roman Legion re-enactments at Hadrian’s Wall in northern England. Thankfully, it only lasts for three days a year.
A historical re-enactment of sandstone brick-tugging from the Khmer Empire turned into a pose-down as soon as someone brought out a cellphone.
How to Train your Temple.
The world’s largest Chapey Dong Veng (Cambodian Guitar). It also serves as the primary instrument of the great bluesman Kong Nay, Cambodia’s Ray Charles.
The ever-patronizing “My Village” pavilion. Underlying message from the government: simplicity, ignorance, and complacency good; education, upward mobility, and political deviance bad.

At first I was worried the installations they put up were permanent – me, being the archaeologist, sees anything modern built on an archaeological site as anathema and not in situ – but I saw APSARA officials regulating the construction of the temporary exhibits and pavilions so my anxieties were ease a bit. Most of the pavilions and structures have come down as of a week later, and after another two you won’t be able to notice Sankranta ever took place.

This can stay though.

The third is a city-wide water-gun fight. Yep, water-guns. And though mock urban warfare in war-torn Cambodia seems a little bittersweet, it’s probably the most fun part of the entire weekend. It kind of runs in the same vein as Thailand’s bucket-throwing traditions, too – you can see how both cultures give and took before the modern borders were set in stone in the late 19th century. But Cambodia’s is way more fun.

Weapons of Mass-Submersion.

Infantry groups station themselves along street corners with buckets, unleashing the rain on everyone but the old, the police, and tourists from mainland China who typically want nothing to do with other cultures’ traditions (unless they involve gratuitous consumerism…Christmas…) nor getting sprayed in the face with a water-gun. Gangs form dragging buckets and patrol large sections of avenue with guns the size of small children, and when two gangs meet in the middle, all hell breaks loose.

Havoc is their middle name. Water is their…second…middle name.
Cellphone cameras and nighttime don’t mix.

The Khmer Hydraulic Army also has cavalry divisions, both on motorcycle and tuk-tuk, and once in a while an armoured truck transport rolls by.

They never heard the trucks coming, only the streams of water crashing against the ground. By the time they refilled their guns, it was too late.
There was no time to grieve for our soaked ones, just to wait in fear for the next onslaught.

And, of course, skilled grenadiers throw water balloons into unsuspecting platoons and wait for their inevitable explosions, but that all happened so fast I could do nothing but try to dry my phone off as a balloon sailed through the open chariot of a tuk-tuk and hit me in the knees standing across the road. With no water gun in hand (I was my local convenience store’s combat photographer), I grabbed a hose. GAME ON.

The aftermath of a tuk-tuk skirmish. Squelchy flip-flops are all that remain as a reminder of the carnage.
The roads ran clear with the blood of the aquifers.

Also one weird thing that is combined with the water gun fight is smearing baby powder on people’s faces creating a paste. I got baby powdered a little bit but the only thing that came of it was really soft skin for about two days.

There’s also concerts around Pub Street and a few fireworks here and there, but the real fun is up at Angkor and spraying water on random passers by.

And when there was no one left to soak, they turned on each other…

(Try reading the photo captions like Don LaFontaine – it’s really fun.)

Some Cambodians who’ve come from Phnom Penh or the Northeast take a four-day long weekend, and the traffic in and out of the one-lane South Gate of Angkor Thom was congested with military vehicles passing through, so it took me almost as long to get to Angkor Thom as it did to both get to and catalogue my first Buddhist Terrace on Monday morning. The Middle Class congestion is now gone, and the farmers/tuk-tuk drivers/cooks/masseuses/etc. have all come back from their family rice paddies and resumed the “Barang Hustle”, so all is back to same-same.

I hope this kid’s artistic skill gets him out of that cycle of tourism-farming-tourism-farming, though. His work was by far the most impressive thing I saw all day.

But it was a cool experience overall – Chinese New Year in comparison was all in your face, everywhere, in flashing neon lights, where buying stuff was the name of the game, but Sankranta was more subtle, less commercial, and more…chilled out. I took the three days off from working to see it, and I was really glad I did. It was almost like an extension of the relaxation I felt on Don Det back in Laos.

Something I definitely could use a little more of.

Next Entry: A Day in the Field Part 3 – Photogrammetry at Angkor and why it is AWESOME!

Andrew Harris

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